Chapter 3: Princess Abtah's Sitting Room

An Arab Dance - when Saudi ladies let their hair down, literally

The meal over, we all adjourn to another room for dancing. An all-female band arrives with a singer. The loud rhythmic beat, played on hand drums shaped like large tambourines, makes a strong, raw, primitive sound. The younger women and girls know the lyrics of most of the songs.

"Do you like our pop music?" shouts Princess Jowaher over the ear-piercing noise. Composed by Middle Eastern musicians from Saudi, Qatar, Bahrain, Lebanon and Egypt, the music is constantly played on television, radio and cassettes by the younger generation.

The female Arab dance is a sexy dance. Hips and legs move seductively, graceful arm movements give a subtle dignity. This is when the Saudi lady lets her hair down, quite literally. The 'long hair swinging dance' is spectacular, as luxuriant tresses are swung from side to side, round and round, in a frenzy of uninhibited pleasure. As the evening warms up inhibitions are unleashed, and the more expert performers are clapped and encouraged to express what must be their only truly creative outlet. No place for a man? A typical remark from an Essex husband back in England might be: 'Stop making an exhibition of yourself!'

After a short time watching I feel I have learned the basic steps and style. The beat of the music is irresistible. Moving towards the dance floor outstretched hands and delighted smiles draw me into the dance. A long scarf is tied around my hips. Cultural and language barriers disappear. I get a 'buzz' and a hint of what tribal unity is all about. Saudis do not see themselves as individuals as much as part of a whole family-tribe. Their responsibilities are to the group rather than to themselves.

When the music stops I am tingling with pleasure. As I take my seat my elderly neighbour speaks to me. Curious, I signalled to Princess Lamia to come over to translate:

"She is happy for you that you could dance the Saudi way, and share your happiness with everyone." The instinctive warmth and spontaneity, the lack of pretension of these women give me confidence in myself. I want to reach out to them in a reciprocal exchange. I hope very much that as time goes on we will all be richer for the experience.

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