Chapter 10: A Royal Wedding
A Muslim
Royal wedding - black robes come off to reveal the seductive, the sexy,
the elegant & the vulgar
Muslim men
and women celebrate marriage in separate ceremonies. The men gather
for a grand dinner after isha prayer and leave early. The women's wedding
party is a festival with music, dancing, singing and at royal weddings,
a banquet.
We are on
our way.
A hundred
or more Rolls Royces and limousines block the grand driveway entrance
to King Khalid's Palace. As usual security guards in green berets and
khaki check each carload of guests and wave them on to park.
I follow
Princess Abtah and the princesses joining what look like a flock of
blackbirds descending on a garden full of glow-worms.
The huge
Palace gardens are lit up like fairyland. Candles burn on all the small
round tables covered with black lace cloths. Tiny coloured lights decorate
the trees. The night is still and humid and this lavish scene is set
under a blue-black velvet sky.
Before my
eyes a transformation takes place. Black robes come off to reveal the
seductive, the sexy, the elegant, the overdressed, the beautiful, and
the vulgar.
Four hundred
princesses and their relatives and friends are here tonight. In Saudi
Arabia there are twelve thousand royal princesses.
Jewellery
sparkles on their ears, throats, fingers, arms and in their hair, as
brightly as their wide pearly-teethed smiles. Hollywood's Zsa Zsa Gabor
must be their role model!
Long black
hair sways over plump bums. Perfume wafts by me as the women pass.
It is a glittering
affair. Bosoms and cleavages and bronze bare legs are on show with slinky
gold and silver lamé dresses. WOW! I am astonished
and
not a man in sight!
A raucous
ladies' band strikes up. Sexy ladies dance with sexy ladies, their hips
swinging, their hands twirling to the gutsy vibrant beat. Ladies sit
together, stand in groups together, wander around together, gossip together
and eye one another
a glitzy fashion show. Dressed up children
run naughtily between tables chased by distraught nannies. Waitresses
in black suits with long skirts, fifties black court shoes, hair tied
back in dark gauzy scarves, and no make-up, parade around offering guests
crystal goblets of mineral water on silver trays. Dates and chocolates
sit in silver dishes on each black lace tablecloth.
I have lost
track of Princess Abtah. Feeling strange and out of place I sit down
at the nearest table, next to a lady wearing the popular gold lamé
dress. She has a sophisticated air about her.
"Excuse
me," I begin, "where is the bride?"
"She'll
be here at twelve," comes the reply in excellent English with a
slight American accent. I am relieved to meet her. Haifaa is a Saudi
whose husband lectures at Harvard University and their son is at public
school in England.
A western
woman is never lonely for long amongst Muslim women. I feel I have known
her all my life. Haifaa remarks how slim I am.
"Saudi
women are always trying to diet. I'm cutting out salt and sugar."
She pushes a large bowl of chocolates out of reach with a sigh.
The waitresses
are on parade again, this time with highly-coloured drinks on the silver
trays. I sip fruit cocktail through a multi-coloured straw and close
my eyes and in my imagination taste Dom Perignon champagne. Delicious!
The band
stops. Light flashes in the distance. Haifaa stands up. The official
photographer is taking pictures of the bride's arrival.
I quickly
walk behind the band, through the trees, to a vantage point nearer to
the bright carpet laid for the bride to parade up to the steps of the
Palace. Muzak plays softly. Giant viewing screens in the garden relay
her entrance like a rock concert.
Here she
comes, an Arabian princess, the granddaughter of the late King Khalid,
on her wedding day. Young, demure, a little uncertain of herself, her
cream veil over her hair and shoulders but not over her face, wearing
a princess line, long-sleeved, high round collar, simply cut, cream
silk dress with her beautiful long black hair woven in strands of jewels
and pearls. She carries a bouquet of huge white trumpet lilies.
Two small
dark bridesmaids follow her, overdressed in frilly short Shirley Temple
numbers and wedge-heel black leather shoes.
The bride
has never met her bridegroom before and, not being used to appearing
in public and undoubtedly a virgin, the evening must be an ordeal for
her. Lamia tells me at her wedding she was so nervous her legs shook
when she faced the hundreds of people but Saudi princesses are accustomed
from early childhood to parading down long rooms to present themselves
and they walk with lovely poise.
I see the
bride walking alone on the purple carpet as long as a church aisle and
up a grand flight of steps to take her seat in front of the Palace.
Close family
come up first to kiss her. The two radiant mothers fuss with her veil
and pose for photographs. Guests, all women, one by one come up to greet
her. The garden buzzes with excited chatter and the giant screens relay
'The Bride Show.' An extravaganza!